We’re all a little shaken by the unfortunate turn of events at Rosendales Modern Bistro and its associated eateries, as well as the closings of Handke’s and Morton’s. But there are still some highly rated fine-dining venues locally and elsewhere in the state. Hopefully, the economy won’t claim them too. Let’s turn our attention to Zack Bruell’s L’Albatros Brasserie & Bar in Cleveland, which has made Esquire magazine’s top restaurants of 2009. There’s a pretty picture of the sautéed walleye with lobster quenelles and sauce Americaine on page 83 of the latest issue. Check out the restaurant at www.albatrosbrasserie.com. Bruell’s Table 45, in the Intercontinental Hotel, made the list in 2007.