The Big Cheese
Triple-cremes: High in fat, high in deliciousness
Darn those triple-crmes, the creamy white soft-ripened cheeses that spread so darn well and cause
immediate food addiction.
Almost anyone who tries one is quickly seduced by the buttery flavor and wonderfully satisfying creamy texture. What makes these particular cheeses so pleasing? Velvety-texture aside, fat is the main culprit or savior, depending on your perspective.
Triple-crmes are defined by the excess cream that is added to the milk times three. This means there's 75 percent or more fat in that that little innocent creamy spread of heaven.
France is the birthplace of the triple-crme and has a lot to offer in the genre. At least a dozen come to mind right away, with probably another six dozen that never leave the markets of the French countryside. Some noteworthy French creameries include Delice de Bourgogne, a cow's-milk triple from the Bourgogne, or as we Americans refer to it as, the Burgundy region. This cheese was partially invented by the 18th century French gastronome Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, famous for such quotes as "Tell me what you eat, and I'll tell you what you are." His creation later brought about the appropriately named Brillat-Savarin triple-crme in the 1930s. Both factory-produced cheeses are wonderfully creamy with a slight mushroom aroma and flavor from the exterior rinds. They boast white, almost fluffy interiors that turn to a light hay color with age. Both also have very buttery flavor profiles, although Brillat offers a little more tang.
These cheeses are great anytime, but are particularly stellar for dessert served alongside fresh fruit or preserves. If it's cocktail hour, a nice Champagne or sparkler are required to open up the palate and mellow out the butter fat. Or try a pale ale or heady stout. One of my favorite sweet fixes is a triple-crme served on a graham cracker with a nice chocolate stout it's a skewed version of a s'more.
Other French notable cheeses include Pierre-Robert, St. Andre and Explorateur.
France isn't the only producer of triple-crmes, although many Frenchmen might disagree. Always a supporter of the domestic movement, the states are producing some wonderful triples. Bittersweet Plantation in Goncalves, La., is producing both artisanal cow and goat's milk triple-crmes. At Evangeline, the goat triple is amazingly creamy with an exceptional goat cheese tang reminiscent of a very creamy goat feta. It pairs wonderfully with caramel, figs or honey. Bittersweet's Fleur-de-lis, a more traditional cow's milk triple gives many of those Frenchmen a run for their Euros with its haunting milky/salty buttery, almost floral, flavorings. A nice Sauternes or ice wine would be appropriate if you're not in the mood for bubbly.
Others to check out are Cowgirl Creamery's mushroomy Mt. Tam and washed-rind triple Red Hawk, award-winning Coach (as in the bag conglomerate, seriously) Farms Triple Cream Goat's Round, and Georgia's farmstead triple-crme Green Hill from Sweet Grass Dairy.
Be sure to expand your triple-crme knowledge whenever possible. Some might say it's three times the fun.
Wendy Hunsinger is the specialty-foods manager for Katzinger's in German Village.
Almost anyone who tries one is quickly seduced by the buttery flavor and wonderfully satisfying creamy texture. What makes these particular cheeses so pleasing? Velvety-texture aside, fat is the main culprit or savior, depending on your perspective.
Triple-crmes are defined by the excess cream that is added to the milk times three. This means there's 75 percent or more fat in that that little innocent creamy spread of heaven.
France is the birthplace of the triple-crme and has a lot to offer in the genre. At least a dozen come to mind right away, with probably another six dozen that never leave the markets of the French countryside. Some noteworthy French creameries include Delice de Bourgogne, a cow's-milk triple from the Bourgogne, or as we Americans refer to it as, the Burgundy region. This cheese was partially invented by the 18th century French gastronome Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, famous for such quotes as "Tell me what you eat, and I'll tell you what you are." His creation later brought about the appropriately named Brillat-Savarin triple-crme in the 1930s. Both factory-produced cheeses are wonderfully creamy with a slight mushroom aroma and flavor from the exterior rinds. They boast white, almost fluffy interiors that turn to a light hay color with age. Both also have very buttery flavor profiles, although Brillat offers a little more tang.
These cheeses are great anytime, but are particularly stellar for dessert served alongside fresh fruit or preserves. If it's cocktail hour, a nice Champagne or sparkler are required to open up the palate and mellow out the butter fat. Or try a pale ale or heady stout. One of my favorite sweet fixes is a triple-crme served on a graham cracker with a nice chocolate stout it's a skewed version of a s'more.
Other French notable cheeses include Pierre-Robert, St. Andre and Explorateur.
France isn't the only producer of triple-crmes, although many Frenchmen might disagree. Always a supporter of the domestic movement, the states are producing some wonderful triples. Bittersweet Plantation in Goncalves, La., is producing both artisanal cow and goat's milk triple-crmes. At Evangeline, the goat triple is amazingly creamy with an exceptional goat cheese tang reminiscent of a very creamy goat feta. It pairs wonderfully with caramel, figs or honey. Bittersweet's Fleur-de-lis, a more traditional cow's milk triple gives many of those Frenchmen a run for their Euros with its haunting milky/salty buttery, almost floral, flavorings. A nice Sauternes or ice wine would be appropriate if you're not in the mood for bubbly.
Others to check out are Cowgirl Creamery's mushroomy Mt. Tam and washed-rind triple Red Hawk, award-winning Coach (as in the bag conglomerate, seriously) Farms Triple Cream Goat's Round, and Georgia's farmstead triple-crme Green Hill from Sweet Grass Dairy.
Be sure to expand your triple-crme knowledge whenever possible. Some might say it's three times the fun.
Wendy Hunsinger is the specialty-foods manager for Katzinger's in German Village.
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