Hilliard comfort-food restaurant has notable Latin influence

Hilliard comfort-food restaurant has notable Latin influence

Louie's Grill eagerly fills a niche in Hilliard's fairly humdrum dining scene. It's risky enough to be interesting but tame enough to appeal to most palates.

Founded by Louie Perez, formerly of the Starliner Diner, and Efrain Mijangos, the place is all about comfort food, much of it with a
Latin flair.

Black beans, firm, flavorful and never mushy, are a staple of most dishes. Sometimes it's piled on rice. Sweet plantains ($4) come in
thick, fried coins, served with a salsa ranch dipping sauce.

The space is big and open, simply decorated with a few colorful pictures. A bar made from thick glass blocks occupies a portion of
the dining room. Service is among the friendliest in town and largely efficient, but plate timing could be better.

The menu claims a strong fusion dynamic, which is true with some fare, but most dishes are distinctly American or Mexican, or other
points south. Those who are worried about spiciness shouldn't. Most dishes that bring the heat do so in a subtle, enjoyable way.

Smoky andouille sausage seasons the excellent jambalaya ($12), which uses a generous amount of plump shrimp and moist
chicken in a brisk tomato sauce over moist rice.

Cornmeal-dusted catfish makes up the po' boy sandwich ($8.50), garnished with remoulade, tomatoes and onions on decent bread.
Served with fries, it's a satisfying bite.

Breakfast is available every day at Louie's, with extended hours on the weekends. Huevos rancheros ($8) is a hearty platillo, using
black beans encircling a base of corn tortillas layered with cheese and two eggs smothered in a zesty salsa flecked with fresh
cilantro. As for the brown-and-serve sausage ($2.50 for four pieces), c'mon guys, grill up some fresh links.

The restaurant has an offbeat take on mofongo ($9), a Puerto Rican dish. In this special of the day, a hefty chicken breast is stuffed
with sweet plantain, dusted in cornmeal and fried to a delectable conclusion. The kitchen then ladles two sauces - spicy red pepper
sauce and more soothing green onion - over the top.

Starters are largely appetizing and handled with care. Frequently dull at many restaurants, the quesadillas ($8.50), a special on one
visit, are stuffed with savory beef brisket and toasty onions, colorfully garnished with fresh pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream.
Chile con carne ($4 a cup, $5 a bowl) has wonderful consistency, a mix of ground beef and larger cuts of meat. Chopped onion and
pickled jalapeno add a potent dimension.

But not everything measures up. The roasted half chicken ($12), cut up into four pieces, is overcooked. It's drizzled with a lime
"margarita" dressing that helps moisten the dish. Go with the roast pork with salsa verde ($12) instead - pork, thin slices of peppers
and onions and corn in a tart tomatillo sauce.

To sum it up, Louie's is a good place for affordable, homemade meals. Neither pretentious nor overly simple, it will put a little spice
in your life.

Pricing: Inexpensive
Reservations: Accepted
Hours: 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday
Call 614-777-5606