Motivated Delaware steakhouse has many bright spots, a few duds

Going out for steak in this economy might seem like an unnecessary indulgence, especially when it's easier - and less expensive - to grill at home.

As any couple has experienced at our higher end steakhouses, cocktails, wine, side dishes and sizzling slabs of meat can easily push the bill past the high-water mark of $100, not including tip.

But a new chop house in Delaware doesn't treat customers like they're on an expense account. At D' Steakhouse, extras aren't overpriced and the beef is bold and beautiful. The 16-ounce bone-in ribeye
($22.99) is a good example: nutty, earthy and cooked to medium rare. It, as all steaks, is served with a choice of spuds. Make it a baked potato with butter and sour cream, basic and enjoyable.

Across from the Strand Theatre, D's has a country inn aesthetic balanced by modern urban savvy. Its exposed brick and dark woods are warm and inviting; fans twirl from the high ceiling. The bar area is laidback
while the dining room is more intimate, with white linen tablecloths and tea candles on each table.

The menu is sensible and in some cases upscale but doesn't stray too far from the classics.

Straightforward pot roast ($12.99) is virtually flawless, served with roasted vegetables and silky mashed potatoes. A different kind of steak, calamari steak ($9), is cut into strips, lightly battered and flash fried.

Mild and tender, it arrives at the table cold and dabbed with entirely too much goat cheese.


At times, D's broadens its appeal with chef-driven specialties. Perfectly cooked crustaceans are paired with coins of andouille sausage - always a good twosome - tossed in a rich, piquant cream sauce over
sumptuous grits ($14.99).

A few items miss the mark, such as the mac 'n' cheese ($5) - too tangy from goat cheese and in desperate need of breadcrumbs, bacon or anything that might give it some texture. A trio of hummus, tapenade
and tzatziki ($7) stands out on the menu but doesn't translate, as none of the choices is particularly bold or interesting.

As for the baseball steak ($16.99 for 12 ounces), referring to the thick-cut style of top sirloin, we wondered if a Louisville Slugger could have tenderized it.

Save for a few decent labels - the Navarro Correas Malbec ($23 a bottle), for example - the wine list needs an upgrade.

Often seen as the pinnacle of dining, steakhouses can run from casual to costly. D's is pretty much right in the middle, a serious and determined restaurant that has a few kinks to work out.

Pricing: Inexpensive to expensive
Reservations: Accepted
Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Tuesday through Friday and 4 to midnight Saturday, closed Sunday and Monday
Call 740-417-4373