The Big Cheese

Warmer days signal need for more goat cheese

By By Wendy Hunsinger

true Wednesday July 8, 2009 1:06 PM

Ringing in the first day of summer a few short days ago, my foodie mind is thinking about all the bounties of the season: fresh garden produce and herbs, light drinkable wines while sitting on the patio, charcoal-grilled meats and veggies, and of
course goat cheese.

Goat cheese? Yes. I've dubbed it the unofficial cheese of summer, the perfect complement to foods and wine of the season. All the styles of goat cheese fit wonderfully into any summer menu.

Without any accompaniments, goat cheese is a treat in itself. Most are light on the palate with a great tang and subtle saltiness. Goat cheese also possesses the least amount of fat of the "trinity" of cheeses: Goat, cow and sheep's milk. This
means it's lighter on your body and not heavy on the palate, perfect for summer fruits and veggies, as well as lean meats.

One goat cheese you must pick up this summer is goat feta. An excellent one is Lake Erie Creamery goat feta. It's a raw milk feta that is made in Cleveland, and considered to be local because it's within a few-hours' drive. It's wonderfully creamy,
with subtle saltiness, similar to true Greek-style feta. Served by itself, it calls for a nice rose. In a dish, I insist you use it in a fresh Greek salad with tomatoes, onions and cucumbers with a vinaigrette heavy with fresh-from-the-garden oregano.

If you're looking for something sweeter, goat feta with watermelon and fresh mint is wonderfully refreshing, simple and out-of-this-world tasty.

Fresh goat cheese is another real treat. Integration Acres' Chevre from Albany, Ohio, is some of the freshest you'll find, and it's only an hour away. Grill up a red bell pepper from your local farmer's market, throw it on a pizza crust or some crusty
bread along with crumbled  goat cheese and basil and grill it right on your hibachi for an impressive hors d'oeuvres. A nice Pinot Grigio is order here, or seek out some of Italy's ancient grape offerings, such as Falanghina or Greco.

Growing squash in the garden? What to do with those gorgeous blossoms? Stuff them with fresh goat cheese and serve them over an omelet for a killer brunch. Once your zucchini is grown, hollow it out the seeds and replace them with some
chevre mixed with fresh marjoram and lemon zest. Throw in a nice California Sauvignon Blanc and you have a picnic.

A slightly aged, surface-ripened goat cheese Bucheron, one of France's best goat exports, calls for a bed of fresh and wild greens, such as lamb's lettuce and dandelion with a tarragon vinaigrette.

Firing up the grill for some serious grilling? Put a nice chunk of blue cheese on those medium rare beef filets, preferably Verde Capra, a wonderfully creamy goat blue from the Lombardy region of Italy. A nice stinky washed rind such as Pau San
Mateu from Spain or a nice domestic washed goat, Soft Wheel from Twig Farm, will harmonize with those nice, juicy burgers. Consider a softer, velvety Zinfandel as the wine pairing here.

Do yourself a favor this summer, sit back relax, and enjoy all it has to offer and maybe go a little gaga for goat cheese while you're at it.

Wendy Hunsinger is the specialty-food manager for Katzinger's in German Village.

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