Fans of Café Zydeco can still get a big bite of the Big Easy.

Fans of Café Zydeco can still get a big bite of the Big Easy.

Mozell Devereaux has relocated her restaurant, now called Zydeco on High, to the former Buffalo Wild Wings location at 515 S. High St. in the Brewery District.

The new place is a full-service restaurant, complete with a full liquor license. The 5,000-square-foot space seats 200.

The menu offers a complete range of Cajun, Creole and Southern classics, such as po' boys, gumbo, fried chicken, chicken and waffles and etouffee, as well as some more upscale choices, including beef Wellington and rack of lamb. Most prices are in the $12 to $22 range.

Devereaux's former restaurant was located in the Riffe Center downtown. But there were too many limitations: The cafeteria was open for breakfast and lunch but not dinner and there were no alcohol sales, said Devereaux, who previously was known by her married name, Raines.

One thing hasn't changed: She does things her way, demanding use of her recipes to ensure consistency.

"Nobody's allowed to do anything without my say," she said.

That includes her daughter, Jordana Raines, who's carrying out mom's orders. She was working in a financial institution with hopes of becoming an international banker.

The new gig's working out just fine, even with her mother watching over her.

"It's exciting," she said. "It's a new adventure."

Devereaux started her career working in the computer room of a New York City-based publishing house and then moved on to a women's clothier.

But her hometown of Shaker Heights beckoned, so she returned to the Cleveland area.

She liked to entertain, had lots of friends and a son who needed to stay busy, but wasn't necessarily attracted to the kitchen.

"I was never interested in food," she said. "I was never interested in cooking."

Even she couldn't deny that she was good at it, being taught the basics from her grandmother, a New Orleans native.

So she pursued cooking and worked in hotels and country clubs, and started a catering outfit before opening her own restaurant, Chez Mozell in Shaker Heights.

In 2003, she was struck by a disease that left her legally blind. Devereaux closed her restaurant but that wasn't the end of her career. She was asked to run the cafeteria in the Riffe Center as part of a business enterprise program through the state of Ohio.

"I'm from good stock," she said. "My parents were busy people. They taught me to work hard."

gseman@thisweeknews.com

www.ThisWeekNews.com