Familiar fare is enlivened with surprising flair
This week, dear readers, eaters and vicarious culinary adventure-seekers, you’ll be visiting a fanciful and intriguing place where flavors are as familiar as they are strange.
I’m talking about a locale where the commonplace and exotic delightfully wrangle on your plate, and the only thing missing from sitting and supping like a sultan is a pair of pointy slippers. Yes, you’ve guessed it, I’m suggesting you take a trip to a strip mall near Polaris.
Specifically, you’ll be heading to Noora’s Persian Cuisine.
There you’ll find fresh, healthful and utterly delicious kebabs and dip-propelled regimens that closely resemble what you get at Turkish restaurants.
The primary exception is a sumac-starring powder (think mild paprika that tickles your tongue like lime juice), which is used a major seasoning.
Noora’s is upbeat and cheery inside, with colorful, traditional Persian-style tablecloths and a semi-private, sultanic mini-chamber.
There you can belly up to knee-high tables while casually relaxing on a low, raised-platform “floor” amid a flurry of oriental rugs and pillows.
As for service, I wouldn’t call it super-efficient, but I would say it’s friendly and helpful while decoding a menu rife with unusual-sounding entries such as Mirza Ghasemi and Mast-o-khiar.
Those two appetizers might be a challenge to pronounce, but they’re easy to eat, and both appear on the highly recommended Noora Platter ($12).
Served with Noora’s dimpled, puffy and toasty house flatbread (like a hybrid between Turkish pide and Middle Eastern pita), the platter’s a four-time winner with its quartet of disparate palate-openers.
Its lineup includes the aforementioned mizra ghasemi (a smoky, tangy and phenomenal warm dip of roasted tomatoes, garlic and eggplant that converted every eggplant-hater at my table); mast-o-khiar (a tart, bright and thick tzatziki-like blend of yogurt and cucumbers popping with mint); a chunky and almost Russian Olivieh salad (mayo-bound diced potato and egg with effective counterpoints of pickle, leek and green peas); plus a rich, creamy and seriously smooth hummus.
Noora’s killer Grill Platter ($25, feeds two committed bingers) is the kebab analog of the starter sampler.
Served with fluffy, saffron-sprinkled basmati rice, house bread and grilled veggies were two skewers of kefta-like beef and chicken logs (Koobideh), sliced steak (Barg) and marinated chicken chunks.
All were tender, juicy, attractively charred and zingy with that sumac seasoning.
While that was a standout, the considerably more uncommon Joojeh kebabs ($13) stood even taller.
This was another mammoth platter – only of succulent Cornish game hens (think chickens shrunk in size, magnified in flavor) – given the same beautiful treatment as above.
Although you have to navigate through a few teeny bones in the conveniently disassembled bird pieces, man, is it worth it.
The hits continued with an insanely delicious Lamb Shank ($15, plated with a shoulder-shrug of a Greek-like salad plus that good rice).
Served with a bowl of fragrant roasting juices I would happily down shots of all day, it was a mighty staff of highly aromatic, falling-off-the-bone meat whose deeply developed flavors were partially leavened with a finishing touch of orange.
Characteristic of Noora’s terrific fare, it’s like an old favorite enlivened with unexpected flair.