The French white is crisp, fresh and bright, Wine Wisdom columnist Roger Gentile says.

If one is a real foodie, then Sancerre is a part of the table.

This classic white from France's Loire Valley is made with a grape called fume blanc. In truth, this is a sauvignon blanc but given the wine's aromatics, the literal translation to "white smoke" is most appropriate.

Robert Mondavi began using this name when he started his winery because he aimed for a more Loire-centric character for his food-friendly wines.

On Thanksgiving, I drank the 2011 Foucher-LeBrun "LeMont" Sancerre. The aromas here are textbook Sancerre: perfumed aromas of fruit and flint; with chalk, and lime.

This is a wine which fits well into that "racy" class, which is a wine geek's way of saying it has very high acidity, and finishes crisp, fresh, and bright. As well if one is a vegetarian, there are no wines better with a plate of fresh vegetables, asparagus, artichokes or Brussels sprouts.

These are never inexpensive, and this one fetches an honest $20 a bottle and, as noted, if you are into food, this is for you. If your place doesn't carry it, contact Vanguard Wines in Columbus.

Roger Gentile is the owner of Gentile's, the Wine Sellers – – and the author of two books on wine.