Wine Wisdom

The 2011 Nisia a dense wine with saturation and intensity

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Roger Gentile
By ROGER GENTILE
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The 2011 Nisia, a Spanish white, is among the best white wines I’ve tried in the last six months that wasn’t a chardonnay.

This Spanish white, made from old-vine Verdejo, with ridiculously low yields of about eight-tenths of a ton per acre, which means around 600 bottles can be produced from that amount of land. This is quite a dense wine with saturation and intensity, but very refined.

Spain normally uses this prolific grape as a low-end workhorse to satisfy the international demand for unobtrusive, inexpensive Spanish white wine. But in this case, the yields and region (Rueda, which is near Rioja) have created a thing that, for me, offers aromas of white pepper, fresh casaba melon, and peach and kiwi notes.

It is not fat, yet reveals itself as really a great drinking cocktail or food wine. I think this is a “foodies” white. The price is $16 a bottle and is available through Cutting Edge Selections of Cincinnati.

 

Roger Gentile is the owner of Gentile’s, the Wine Sellers – www.gentiles.com – and the author of two books on wine.

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