Wine Wisdom

Italian white has mineral edge

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Sometimes I need a nudge to buy a wine, especially when it is unknown to me.

Such was the case with the 2011 Fattori “Runcaris” Soave Classico, an Italian white that is always serviceable but rarely exciting.

I had demurred when first offered the wine as it seemed to be another “me too” white. Much later, I actually tasted it, which made the point that I had missed the boat with this one. I was most impressed and decided to have a bottle with dinner, my famous asparagus penne with Parmesan, as I thought it would be a perfect match.

Refreshing and clean, this bone-dry wine has definite mineral, peach and citrus characters that make it a perfect wine for antipasto, cold soups, vegetarian dishes and any warm night. If there is any hallmark of the wine it shows a refreshing and zesty mouth with a crisp acid “snap.”

The grape here is the Garganega, and the origins of this summer white are some noteworthy vineyards in Terrossa di Ronca, one of the better sites in Italy’s Veneto region. One must overlook the romantic notions of the old family winery, as this ultra-modern facility uses stainless steel, cold-fermentation and non-interventional methods which allow the grape and winemaker to be the star.

The price is $9 a bottle. If your favorite place doesn’t have it, ask the wine manager to try Vanguard Wines.

Roger Gentile is the owner of Gentile’s, the Wine Sellers – www.gentiles.com – and the author of two books on wine.

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