Wine Wisdom

Spanish blend uses syrah to its advantage

By ROGER GENTILE
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Roger Gentile

The 2010 Teorema “Old Vines” from Spain hails from Calatayud, a northern region just south and a bit east of Rioja.

This is a sultry red, made with 85 percent Grenache and 15 percent syrah – and all old-vine.

There is a bawdy core of sweet black fruit but without being gloppy and unbridled. Rather, this shows off great elegance with a flavorful taste of fresh strawberry and blackberry.

The wine is totally new to me – and I loved Spanish wines – thanks to a recommendation from one of my suppliers.

I think one of the fascinating things about this meaty red is that it uses syrah, which seems rare for Spain.

To be sure, France’s Rhone region has made an almost sacrament of the grape, but it is rare to see in Iberia. As I tasted the wine, it became evident that the earthy nature of the syrah tamed that juiciness that Grenache can sometimes show. Perhaps it’s a great example as to why winemakers like to blend different grapes.

You can source this wine, which sells for $10 a bottle, from Glazer Wines in Columbus.

 

Roger Gentile is the owner of Gentile’s, the Wine Sellers – www.gentiles.com – and the author of two books on wine.

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