Wine Wisdom

Super Tuscan is a real dazzler – especially for the price

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Roger Gentile

The 2011 Tommasi Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo is a true super Tuscan from the easternmost region, it even touches the sea.

This region is where all of those $300-plus bottles of Tuscan luxury wines emanate. While Tommasi is centered in Veneto, the family bought this winery and vineyards almost 20 years ago, and proceeded to replant, redo and rejuvenate it all. Today they have an agriturismo winery, and it is gorgeous. Delving further into the operation, the soils here are what the Tuscans call tufo, which is a kind of volcanic rock that makes red grapes sing.

I think it is a dazzler, and it fits into a “Will Rogers” wine category, my pet term for a wine that everybody likes, especially at $18 a bottle. It is a blend of 60 percent sangiovese and 40 percent cabernet sauvignon, and is not too tannic. It has a glorious aroma of blackberries, bing cherries, spice and cigar box. It is a beauty of a red. The oak used are the large cubas that hold more than 5,000 gallons, which explains why wood and tannin are not overly evident, and the wine has a place with white meats, red meats, pasta and mild cheeses.

 


Roger Gentile is the owner of Gentile’s, the Wine Sellers – www.gentiles.com – and the author of two books on wine.

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