Wine Wisdom

California chardonnay is fat, ripe

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The 2012 SloDown “Broken Dreams” Chardonnay is a whopper of a wine from a small California winery operation owned by Bo Sillman and Brandon Allen.

This big white is much different different than the most chards. The reason is simple – malolactic fermentation, or ML, and only a judicious amount of wood.

Simply put, “ML” is a winemaking process in which already fermented wine is inoculated with malolactic yeast, and the wine takes on a broader and richer mouth impression.

What the Broken Dreams becomes is a fat, ripe and oily white with aromas of tropical fruit, butter, toast, cream and a decadently juicy body. The major problem with ML is it can create a sour smell and taste, and, if the juice had too little acidity to begin with, the wine is flat and boring, But here, the finish is long.

If you are one who likes crisp, steely and zesty white wines like sauvignon blanc, Macon blancs, and dry riesling, this is not for you.

The bottle sells for $19 and can be found at Vanguard Wines in Columbus.

 

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Roger Gentile is the owner of Gentile’s, the Wine Sellers – www.gentiles.com – and the author of two books on wine.

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