Brewery District

Section 8 Yakitorium serving up exotic Japanese cuisine

By GARY SEMAN JR.

ThisWeek Community News Thursday January 5, 2012 12:21 PM

Chicken is nice, but Kenny Kim prefers something a little more interesting.

At his new place, Section 8 Yakitorium in the Brewery District, Kim’s skewered-and-grilled delights include black pork tongue, pork cheek and beef kidneys.

And customers are eating it up.

Kim and his wife, Misako Ohba, have taken over the kitchen at the Double Happiness bar, 482 S. Front St.

They own the Freshstreet food stand in the Short North and serve up Japanese-style yakitori (referring to grilled food on skewers) Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings at the bar.

The food is served two ways: shio, with a sprinkle of sea salt and spritz of lemon, or tare, in which a slightly sweet soy glaze is applied during the cooking process. It is cooked over bincho-tan charcoal from Japan, which burns at a lower temperature than other charcoals but for a longer period of time, Kim said.

“It’s just this oak flavor that’s absolutely perfect for it,” Kim said. “The bincho coals are known for being really clean so you get a super flavor.”

Aside from chicken gizzards and chicken skin, Kim offers more traditional choices, such as short ribs, bacon-wrapped mushrooms and pork belly, and the list always is changing.

“We seek the parts that are not sought out,” he said.

Kim said vegan options are available nightly. All range from $1.50 to $4.

Kim and Ohba opened their food stand eight months ago in a space they share with Mikey’s Late Night Slice; they take the early shift and Mikey’s takes the late shift. The food stand is known for Japanese-influenced crepes filled with savory and sweet items and takoyaki, grilled octopus dumplings.

They planned to add the yakitori to the menu at their food stand until customer Bret Lewis introduced them to Yalan Papillons, the owner of Double Happiness.

“It just looked like it was a good fit,” Kim said.

Papillons said she is excited about the arrangement. She said she intended to create an Asian, small-plates menu.

“They’re really a great, amazing couple,” she said. “They’re open to ideas. They’re really laid back but really professional at the same time.”

Kim and Ohba constantly are adding items to the menu at Double Happiness, such as ramen noodles with a homemade broth and a fried-chicken-and-waffle sandwich made from scratch.

“We’re basically just trying to have some other options for people who may not care too much for authentic Japanese cuisine,” Kim said.

May 23, 2012 | Currently: 64° Haze

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