DeArini's Villa Cementos has an unusual pedigree. The restaurant - DeArini's Villa - was founded in 1967 by Richard and Catherine Tarini. Cementos is a full-service bar and grill that was added in 2002 when space became available next door.
DeArini’s Villa Cementos has an unusual pedigree.
The restaurant — DeArini’s Villa — was founded in 1967 by Richard and Catherine Tarini. Cementos is a full-service bar and grill that was added in 2002 when space became available next door. It is named after Richard Tarini’s cement business.
The menu is old-time Italian-American, with periodic updates.The house salad ($3.60 for a small, $5.70 large), which is included with dinners and pastas, is a traditional Italian-American salad that reflects periodic modernizations. The basic iceberg is joined by designer greens, an occasional leaf of spinach, grated cabbage and carrot, and a black olive.
The house dressing — a tart vinaigrette — has been updated with a red-wine vinegar and reduced sweetness.
Appetizers include wavy-cut french fries ($3.50) cooked dark and clean with a fluffy interior. The onion rings ($3.95) have a crunchy battered exterior cooked even darker.
Italian dinner entrees include linguine in garlic and oil ($8.95). The softly cooked noodles are coated with a simple sauce of light olive oil and fresh garlic. Garlic-lovers won’t find it especially strong, but the dish is a classic. Try it with several shakes of the container of traditional Italian-American grated cheese on each table.
A relatively new entree features a grilled chicken breast topped with the house tomato sauce and smoked provolone. The simple tomato sauce matches well with the provolone to provide flavor for the mild boneless chicken.
The dish isn’t particularly rich, even when considering the side of linguine with alfredo sauce, which gets much of its flavor and richness from grated cheese rather than flour-thickened cream. It is one of the more attractive alfredo approaches around (chicken Roma, $12.50).
The house-made vegetable lasagna ($11.80) is noteworthy. Between each layer of wide egg noodles is a mix of spinach, zucchini, eggplant, ricotta and smoked provolone.
The vegetable mix seems freshly made, as if the lasagna is assembled after the order is in. There is no overload of cheap melting cheeses, and the simple tomato sauce does a good job of accompanying the lasagna without obscuring the flavors.
The restaurant has plenty of pizza options on the menu. The most impressive might be the “mighty meat” ($13.80 for a 10-inch pie), with a fine balance among the meats (pepperoni, sausage, ham, bacon, and salami) and the pizza sauce.
A judicious amount of provolone and dried oregano is sprinkled over the meats before baking. The result is fragrant, filling and satisfying, with the medium-thickness crisp crust playing a true supporting role.
One of the sub sandwiches offered uses house-made Italian sausage ($6.95), which is heated along with tomato sauce and cheese. The sausage is a good balance of spicy-hot and fragrant fennel seasoning. Coarsely ground, it is formed into patties. Two are grilled and placed in a sub bun, along with a topping of good-quality house provolone and a smear of tomato sauce.
After being heated in the oven to melt the cheese, the result is a forcefully flavored sausage sub, with smoky provolone hints.
Easy choices of by-the-glass wines include a well-flavored, true Italian pinot grigio ($5.50), an unusually balanced California pinot noir ($6.75) and a Ruffino Chianti ($6) that goes beyond the one-dimensional.