There's no question that Thai is becoming one of central Ohio's favorite cuisines.

The intriguing and complex spice arrangements have taken hold of local diners and won't let go, as evidenced by the number of new Thai restaurants that have opened in the recent past.

Already popular and one of the longest-running in the region is Thai Orchid on Sawmill Road, whose owners have opened a second store with the same name several miles north.

The gabled, stand-alone building is more representative of suburban architecture than Southeast Asian, but it has a few Thai touches, such as the two silver elephants poised at the entrance.

The lounge area, which includes space for live piano music, is bookended by two warmly decorated and illuminated dining rooms. The entire space is permeated by the soothing sounds of flowing H20, courtesy of a stylized waterfall positioned near the front door.

Curry, an important part of Thai cooking, is well-represented at the Orchid. Curled, deeply cut shrimp are bathed in a spicy reddish-orange version (phad ped shrimp, $14.95), its buttery flavor a good match with the seafood and crunchy vegetables.

A brighter green option is used in a pork dish with Thai eggplant, smaller and rounder than more common eggplant, but also texturally pleasing (gang kheaw warn moo, $13.95). Its bitter flavor is a bit subdued by coconut milk. The liquid is infused with a shot of spice from jalapenos and a vague licorice flavor from the use of holy basil.

Heartier appetites will appreciate the phad see yew ($12.95), a dish employing thick noodles, pork and lightly cooked fresh broccoli moistened with an appetizing soy-based sauce that's slightly sweet.

Somewhat greasy, the deep-fried tod marn ($7.95) still hits a high note. The patties of ground shrimp and chicken are served with a cucumber dipping sauce whose sweetness is a good counterpoint to the savory patties.

We ran into trouble with a few dishes, such as the seafood soup that had so much vegetation (lemongrass, lime leaves, Thai ginger and cilantro) it was hard to get at and taste the bay scallops, shrimp and fish ($4.95 a cup). A salad involving tender calamari rings had an overabundance of onion that restrained the more subtle flavors, including the tantalizing lime sauce (yum pla merk, $7.95). There also was inconsistency with heat. Some dishes that the menu claimed to be hot weren't and others not identified as spicy were. Those sensitive to spice should notify the server.

Diners are met with affectionate greetings from owner Anan Klailee, who seems to be a permanent fixture at the restaurant. He founded the original Thai Orchid with his wife Maria. It hearkens back to a day when the owners presided over the front of the house and took the time to learn their customers' names.
Sure, the second Thai Orchid is new and pristine, but its feels comfortable, something that owners with decades of experience would take the trouble to replicate.

Pricing: Inexpensive to moderately expensive
Reservations: Accepted
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, 4:30 to 11 p.m. Saturday and 4:30 to 9 p.m. Sunday
Call 740-881-3000