Table talk
Pie-maker returns to central Ohio in unusual location

Thursday, March 22, 2007


By Tim Norman/ThisWeek

Bill Yerkes is the creator and founder of bonoPIZZA, located at 7775 Dublin Road inside the Scioto Bait & Grocery Store. Yerkes will also be serving Belgian waffles.


Bill Yerkes has returned to the local restaurant scene with what he wanted, but not where he originally intended.

The founder of bonoPIZZA, a parlor known for Napoli-style pies, will open this weekend in a Delaware County storefront that dates back to the 1880s.

 

Video exclusive: Watch Yerkes make a waffle.

 

"I know it doesn't look like much, but you've got to have the vision," he said as he stood at the front door of the the Scioto Bait & Grocery Store, 7775 Dublin Road, at the corner of Home Road.

"Some people say when life hands you lemons, make lemonade," he said. "I say when life hands you bait, make pizza."

The unincorporated area known as Rathbone is in southern Delaware County, a short jaunt from Scioto Reserve and Muirfield.

Yerkes will take over 400 square feet of the country store, which is owned by Janice Bradley. A mutual friend suggested that Bradley and Yerkes meet for a business opportunity. Bradley, who's owned the business for 15 years, agreed to let Yerkes sublet a small area of the store.

"It just fell into place," she said. "I was open for change."

For the past month or so, Yerkes has been fitting the space for his shop. He printed up 300 paper menus and put them on the counter at Scioto Bait; within a week he had 20 left.

"So I know people are happy we're coming, or seem to be," he said.

The bonoPIZZA name is a familiar one to many Delawareans, who frequented Yerkes' Kilbourne store, a rural outpost that closed last year. He cited landlord issues as his reason for closing.

It's the same basic menu as the Kilbourne store, with an emphasis on made-to-order pizzas using a scratch crust. He has 19 specialty pies plus a build-your-own section, in which customers have the choice to use a tomato sauce or pesto base and a variety of ingredients. Pies are $8 each, or two for $15. The store also will have a signature wood-fired oven, handcrafted by Yerkes.

The only difference from the other stores is Belgian waffles -- real Belgian waffles, Yerkes stressed. They have replaced crepes on the menu for one simple reason: They're easier to transport. The parlor also will offer two salads, two panini sandwiches, plus espresso and cappuccino.

An upgrade of the to-go wine inventory at Scioto Bait & Grocery is in the works, Yerkes added.

Meanwhile, he continues to quibble with the city of Columbus over the opening of his pizza parlor off Fifth Avenue. His intention was to open it last year at 1323 Holly Ave. After a couple of stutter starts, he planned an opening date in late September.

It never happened. Yerkes said he has fought with the city on everything from seating to restroom issues. The latest clash involves the installation of grease traps at the 494-square-foot industrial storefront. Officials say Yerkes needs a grease trap, which will cost in the $15,000 range. He says his restaurant won't even produce grease and is contesting that requirement with Mayor Michael B. Coleman's office. He said the city can waive the use of such a device. A spokesman for Coleman said the matter is under review by the building department.

Yerkes said he's invested $30,000 into the site -- what he expected to spend -- but said he doesn't have the additional money to open it. But, he said, he hasn't given up on the location and hopes to have it operating in the near future.

The Rathbone store is open lunch and early evening hours six days a week, closed Sunday. For more information, call 740-881-0200.

Temptations Indian-Chinese Fusion in the Westpointe Plaza, off Hilliard-Rome Road, has closed. The budget-priced restaurant was open for less than a year.

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