ThisWeek Community Newspapers

You don't necessarily have to know Capt. Niki to know the Big Fat Greek Cuisina has his thumbprints all over it.

The new Upper Arlington restaurant has many of the signature characteristics Niki Chalkias, perhaps better known as Capt. Niki, has brought to the local dining scene: well-made, classic Greek dishes at reasonable prices. Cuisina is comfortable and its spacious dining room is accented by lots of columns, murals and soft lighting.

His latest locale takes the place of Fisherman's Wharf Pier II, which he co-owned. He attributes its demise to a troubled partnership. The only thing missing at Cuisina is his presence at the front of the house.

Maybe Nia Vardalos needs a hosting gig?

Chalkias is in the kitchen, having lots of fun with garlic and lemons. That is evidenced by the garlic-prominent skordalia ($4.50), a velvety potato spread that has pert lemon notes. A touch of lemon also ignites the flavor of the melitzanosalata ($5.99), another cold starter that is nicely chunky with eggplant, feta cheese, roasted red peppers, Greek olives and walnuts for texture.

Like Fisherman's Wharf, Cuisina's sister operation in Bexley, seafood makes up a sizable portion of the menu. Don't expect to be dazzled by contemporary cuisine, but the steady, straightforward approach continues here at the Cuisina.

Large sea scallops are lightly dusted with breadcrumbs and baked in a casserole dish with a toothsome butter wine sauce that successfully elevates the sweetness of the bivalves ($13.99). A thin grouper filet is accurately grilled; the gentle lemon-olive oil sauce and a dusting of herbs are a fitting complement to the mild, fresh-tasting fish ($12.99).

Calamari rings ($6.99) are sauteed until delightfully tender and tossed in garlic butter that has a touch of goat cheese for a note of creaminess. The Greek salad ($3.50) is one of mostly iceberg lettuce, which is kind of disappointing. But it has plenty of accouterments. Be sure to get the balsamic vinaigrette over the sludgy ranch-style dressing.

The vaunted lamb chops ($16.99) are overly seasoned, and finished in a red wine sauce that dominates the flavor of the meat. Ask for the chops without wine. Another lamb option is the very good keftedes ($9.99), four grilled patties of ground lamb, veal and beef with minced onion and other seasonings.

All complementary sides are well parceled and nicely round out the dishes. They include fresh green beans, carrots, celery, onions and peas simmered in an herbed tomato sauce; wedges of lemon potatoes; and seasoned rice.

Cuisina delights with its classic Greek dishes like moussaka ($11.99), which has offsetting strata of thinly sliced fried eggplant, seasoned ground beef and fragrant pecorino cheese, all topped with a rich bechamel sauce.The pastitsio is similarly constructed and just as satisfying ($10.99). One key difference is the use of long, ziti-like noodles.

A breast of chicken finished in wine and lemon is thick, juicy and flavorful (chicken lemonato, $10.99). Avgolemono soup ($2.50 for a small order) also gets a persuasive sparkle of lemon. The aromatic chicken stock is littered with pieces of white and dark meat and orzo.

Desserts can be a disappointing end to the meal. Rice pudding ($2.99) is starchy and bland and a version of baklava drenched in chocolate has none of the crispiness usually associated with this dessert ($3.99). The strawberry shortcake ($3.50), though, is wonderful. You might not even notice the canned strawberries.

Service, while warm and friendly, can be erratic at times. Entrees can come out right on top of appetizers, so better timing is necessary.

Not in the mood for a sit-down meal? Order from the Gyro Market Express, which operates inside the restaurant.