The Napa Valley merlot from Celani is competitively priced.

Napa Valley's luxury-minded Celani winery is on a roll as it continues to get glowing reviews for just about everything it offers.

Yet, one wine you might not have read about is the 2012 Celani Napa Valley Siglo, a 100 percent merlot that is bottled as a proprietary wine.

I have no idea why they did not call it merlot, save for the fact that the grape's character still suffers from the upbraiding it took in the movie Sideways.

As with all Celani wines, it is made by Mark Herold who really is a magician when it comes to great wine (Kamen, Harris, Buccella and Kobalt are among his creations).

I am here to tell you that the 2012 Siglo is a combination of sizzle and elegance, with a classic profile. The aromas smack you with crushed raspberries and black fruit, while some mulled plum finishes off the encounter.

It is neither cloying nor light, but rather a rich, fresh, tantalizing red with definite tannins, great youthful structure – this thing can age eight to 12 years – and a lengthy finish.

It seems to me this initial release indicates that Celani can play with the big boys when it comes to merlot, yet the price of $30 a bottle is an immense value.

I suspect future vintages will cost a lot more, but this wine shows the great characters of both the grape and majestic 2012 Napa vintage. This is a seamless wine with remarkable purity. It can be found by your wine place at Heidelberg Distributing.

Roger Gentile is the owner of Gentile's, the Wine Sellers – – and the author of two books on wine.