Table Talk: Everything coming up gold for Eagles Pizza in New Albany
CORRECTION: Rachel and Adam Savage are Dennis Keesee's daughter and son-in-law. An earlier version of this story indicated otherwise.
In 1971, the village of New Albany had a robust population barely exceeding 500.
It also was the year that Tom and Marjorie Keesee bought Eagle Pizza and renamed it Eagles Villa Pizza, located smack dab in the town center.
A lot has changed in New Albany, as the affluent suburb has experienced enviable commercial and residential growth, with the population soaring to about 11,000.
Yet, Eagles Pizza, as it is known now, still is the same family-run, independent pizzeria that had only a small move – from a tiny building to its current nest at 2 N. High St. – a year later.
Owner Dennis Keesee, son of the founders, acknowledged 50 years is a long time in the restaurant business.
“You watch the community grow,” he said. “You have a lot of customers come and go – a lot of fond memories.”
After all, he was 11 when he started slinging pizzas and 18 when he took over the business, which, by that time, the family had opened Johnnies Villa Pizza in Johnstown (informally known as Villa Pizza.)
“I’m the youngest of four,” said Keesee, 61. “(Dad) had three in college. When I graduated, my dad said, ‘I can’t afford you. Here’s a clipboard. There you go.’”
Even so, the job became more difficult to manage, so he recruited his wife, Teresa, and his daughter and son-in-law, Rachel and Adam Savage, both teachers at the time.
Eagles is known for its wafer-thin crust, made from house-tossed dough, square-cut pieces and provolone instead of mozzarella.
“It’s really a cracker-type crust,” said Adam Savage 31, who has been working at the pizzeria since he was 15. “We spend a lot of money on our cheese to give it that special taste. I can tell you that much.”
There’s a build-you-own-pizza option on the menu, plus predesigned pies. One of the top sellers is the taco pizza.
“We sell an insane amount every year,” he said. “A few years ago, we sold about 30,000.”
The bill of fare includes dinners – such as smothered meatballs, fish and baked spaghetti – salads, subs and sandwiches. Nothing, with the exception of larger pizzas, tops $11.
The modest interior at Eagles, in a building that opened in 1856, pays homage to New Albany’s past, through pictures and carefully appointed farm equipment, and gives a big salute to the military through posters, artifacts, clothing and books.
After all, Keesee is an author and history buff, serving as executive director of the New Albany Historical Society.
The Johnstown pizzeria will move into a new building next door by 2023 – it’s golden anniversary, Keesee said.
Otherwise, the ownership has decided not to expand in an effort to avoid ruining the recipes that have a 50-year tradition, he said.
“I think that we just realized that if you want to do it right, you have to be in your stores, in our opinion,” Keesee said. “I’m very hands on.”
Eagles Pizza hours are 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 1:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 4 to 10 p.m. Sundays. For more information, call 614-855-7600.
Keep on truckin’
Cilantro Latin Bistro, central Ohio’s latest food truck, is serving Venezuelan cuisine in front of the Sunoco fuel station at 993 King Ave. in Columbus
Owned by Hector and Tiffany Munoz, the truck has a permanent spot there but occasionally leaves for event catering, Hector Munoz said.
The house specialty is the arepa, which comes in seven varieties. The arepa is a corn-flour cake that acts like sandwich bread. Customers get to choose their own ingredients or opt for a signature selection.
The “614” arepa, emerging as a favorite, has steak, grilled cheese and cilantro sauce.
The menu also serves build-your-own bowls, empanadas, platters and juice drinks.
Nothing on the menu tops $13.99.