Table Talk: Galla Park Steak in Columbus' Short North takes modern approach to classic model
At first blush, Galla Park Steak appears different from the clubby, dimly lit chop houses of yore.
Sleek and stylish, using drifting shades of gray, green and pink offset by black accents, cushy booth seating and an active bar area, the Short North’s latest restaurant sports a contemporary, dynamic setting at 900 N. High St.
“We call it a modern steakhouse, if you’re looking for a social, interactive dining experience,” said Adam Solomon, director of Columbus-based Peerless Management Group, which opened Galla Park Steak on April 21.
The menu has an abundance of restructured dishes, such as lobster escargot, cooked in the same traditional style as the timeless snail dish, with garlic butter, gruyere cheese and toast points.
Galla has a more updated approach to steaks, sourcing its meats from top-quality, select farms in Ohio and beyond, Solomon said.
“The focus on our company is premium products at low premium prices,” he said.
"Steak is incredibly hard to source right now," Solomon said. "We will not waver from that premium product."
Another benefit to customers, Solomon said, is the meat is sliced before it reaches the table, encouraging people to share their meals. The bone-in cowboy ribeye, which costs $74, could feed two, he said.
Sauces, toppings and sides – hollandaise, creamed corn and blue cheese, to name a few – are of the standard steakhouse model.
Solomon said other entrees are priced to meet most budgets. There are two pasta dishes that use fresh noodles from a Cincinnati purveyor – pappardelle with clam sauce, for $16, and bucatini with Grana Padano cheese and cracked black pepper — a dish known as cacio e pepe – for $12.
A burger priced at $21 might seem a little steep, but Solomon said it’s one for the ages – ground chuck, short rib and New York strip, garnished with little gem lettuce, white cheddar and a tomato-bacon jam.
“I tried about 19 different burger blends that companies were customizing for me, and that’s the one I chose,” Solomon said.
Among the signature entrees is moqueca, a Brazilian seafood medley with rice, coconut milk and dende oil.
At the attractive bar area, Galla has been innovating with specialty smoked cocktails.
For the “Bubble” drink, a food-grade dome is filled with citrus vapor that clings to the rim of the glass once the dome is removed. Not only is it visually striking when the bubble bursts; the citrus vapor also seasons the drink, Solomon said.
“The cocktail program is intense and fun,” he said. “We do a lot of smoked things. We do a lot of fun things.”
The wine list is hand-picked, with an ample selection of steak-family reds available. Galla carries options from Schrader Cellars, an elite American producer from California.
Peerless Management Group owns several restaurants and nightclubs in Ohio and the Midwest, including Fireproof Restaurant, a tapas and wine bar, also in the Short North, and Galla Park, which has another eatery in Cincinnati.
Peerless has additional plans in the Short North, having just signed a lease for the vacant Black Point space on the cap over Interstate 670. Solomon would not reveal the concept.
Galla Park Steak’s kitchen hours are 4 to 10 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays, 4 to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays and 4 to 10 p.m. Sunday, with brunch hours in the offing. On Fridays and Saturdays, the bar closes at 2:30 a.m.
For more information, call 614-826-0023.
Slice of life
Flyers Pizza & Subs opened its ninth location April 28 at 6542 Hayden Run Road in the south Dublin area. The latest pizzeria, as with seven others in the locally based chain, has a pickup window for call-ahead orders.
On a related note, the company just celebrated the 45th anniversary of its original location in West Jefferson.
Shake, rattle and roll
Shake Shack, known for its 100% Angus beef burgers, crinkle-cut fries, milkshakes and frozen custard, is opening its third central Ohio location by the end of the year at 1370 Polaris Parkway in north Columbus.
The main difference from its Easton Town Center and Short North stores is that it will have a drive-thru.