Table Talk: Specialty oven shapes Nomad menu in north Columbus
Patrick Daly bought his oven system long before he had a place to put it in the new Nomad Hot Kitchen & Cool Spirits.
After a trip to Spain to learn more about the Josper ovens and their functions, Daly acquired a pair. He needed only a place to put them and a menu that illustrated their unique cooking functions.
Daly, who also owns Atlas Tavern near Polaris Fashion Place, found a space nearby at 2050 Polaris Parkway in Columbus, formerly the site of Sweet Carrot.
Nomad Hot Kitchen & Cool Spirits opened Aug. 28 and takes full advantage of the charcoal-fired oven, which has rotating handles that lower and raise the grill over the heat. A handful of wood is thrown on top of the coal to give the food a smoky flavor.
His other Josper also is a charcoal-fired oven and uses wood for flavor. It can reach temperatures of 1,000 degrees and vent the heat to increase or decrease quickly.
Daly said he cooks most of his meats and vegetables at 500 to 600 degrees.
Daly uses the oven to cook wagyu steak, the most expensive dish at $50, that is topped with chimichurri compound butter and served with fries.
"Wagyu -- that is the thing," he said of the heavily marbled, tender cut of beef. "Steaks really shine on this oven. The oven is only half the battle. You need to have a great ingredient."
Another signature dish is the pork chops with grilled peaches, andouille cheddar grits and charred green beans.
As for seafood, the tuna steak, for example, is a rare filet with bourbon-barrel teriyaki accompanied by chilled sesame noodle salad, and the prosciutto-wrapped scallops are tossed with linguine, basil and cherry tomatoes in a creamy brie sauce.
Most entrees cost $12 to $25.
The interior of Nomad, which seats 60 with COVID-19 coronavirus social-distancing limits in place, is mostly wood with black accents, glazed ebony tiles, modern light fixtures and a full-service bar.
"We knew we were going to go with an open kitchen, so we didn't skimp on anything," said Daly, who has two partners in the venture, Marco Piazza and Greg Donofrio.
Daly said he signed the lease in December, which gave him and chef John Bruno, formerly of Harvest Pizzeria, time to work out a menu.
The plan is to add delivery service in the next few weeks, Daly said. Lunch hours also are in the offing, he said.
Hours are 4 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays and 4 to 9 p.m. Sundays. The restaurant is closed Mondays.
For more information, call 614-505-8466.
Two legendary food companies and two popular foodstuffs have yielded one iconic result.
Schmidt's Sausage Haus und Restaurant and Graeter's Ice Cream have combined forces to offer black-raspberry-chip cream puffs through Sept. 30 at Schmidt's restaurant, 240 E. Kossuth St. in German Village, and three local food trucks.
The cream puffs, part of Schmidt's ongoing flavor-of-the-month campaign, will use Graeter's handmade blackberry puree and dark-chocolate chips to recreate the popular ice cream flavor in the dessert.
Dough Mama is open at 730 S. High St. in Columbus' Brewery District.
The follow-up to the original location, 3335 N. High St. in Clintonville, takes over the space formerly occupied by Kolache Republic, which has relocated a few blocks north inside the Daily Growler, 702 S. High St.
Perrie Wilkof, owner and founder of the business, said Dough Mama serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, and it has a few new menu items, including mini pot pies, tuna-noodle casserole, a kale quesadilla, espresso and related coffee drinks.
Dough Mama is open 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesdays and Thursdays and 9 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
For more information, call 614-826-0688.